We saw some of the last remaining mountain gorillas and chimps--our closest DNA relatives–several species of monkeys, birds galore and other wildlife, and on-the-ground conservation and community programs in action.

Gorilla Trekking

After negative COVID tests taken the day before, we left early next morning for our first gorilla trek. Following a briefing at the Volcanos National Park headquarters, we split into two groups. My jeep drove through a cobble-stoned village up to our trailhead.

We chose a walking stick and met our porter who would help on the two-hour hike as needed. I really enjoyed getting to know these guys on both days in the park.

We walked through fields of pyrethrum, a daisy like flower used in organic sunscreens, popular in Europe.  Dian Fossey describes the encroachment of these cultivated crops in the volcanic and fertile park back in Gorillas in the Mist. We share greetings and curiosity with families working in the fields, head up, passing giant bushes of hydrangea and enter the forest.

We navigate a range of ecosystems–low tunnels of curved bamboo, open hills of vegetation where we could see buffalo, trees with golden monkeys and slippery slopes, thankful for the walking stick. The air, sights, sounds and experience are wonderful.

Suddenly we stop–the gorillas are near. We leave our porters behind to minimize the number of people with the gorillas, and follow the two lead guides. That’s when we meet the silverback. Then a group of 4 females and a juvenile male; later babies swinging doing acrobatics above us and making sure we are watching them.

We end up seeing all 10 members of the Hirwa (lucky) group. Spending a magical hour in the presence of these beautiful, intelligent, emotional creatures, so complex in their social structure, was amazing. 



Next day was sunnier and hiking to a different location, we visited the Agashya (special) group of 12 that included three silverbacks. Sometimes they are amazingly close to us, running or ambling right by. Years of habituation result in them being remarkably comfortable around non-threatening humans.

Although the gorillas stole my heart, spending time with chimpanzees was exhilarating and another bucket list realized during my trip.

There were many highlights on this part of the trip–starting with my first ever helicopter ride! In under an hour we flew from Kigali over the lush hilly countryside to the stunning One&Only Nyungwe House resort, in the middle of tea country and surrounded by misty mountains.

We were welcomed by a soulful, joyous performance of music and dance. As with One&Only’s sister property Gorilla’s Nest, we were blow away by the beauty, nature, style, comfort and all-around understated luxury of the resort. There were so many things to do from bird watching, canopy walks, and tea tastings to the glorious spa and yoga by the pool.

We began our journey in the capital, staying at the Kiglai Serena, a renowned lovely hotel with a traditional African feel and art, plus a great pool surrounded by tropical trees and birds. We stopped at The Retreat hotel for lunch and met the American owners who have lived in Rwanda for decades.

In prep for my trip, I’d learned that Rwanda was the safest country in Africa and fifth safest in the world. And sure enough, I did feel safe in Kigali and throughout the country. My first day I took a long walk through the hilly capital known as the “city of a 1000 hills,” or Mille Collines in French and name of the real Hotel Rwanda made famous in the film.

Of course a country’s history and complexities are multifaceted and Rwanda is no exception. I also started peeling that onion.

At times people go haywire in society and commit genocide. This happened in Rwanda between different ethnic groups in 1994. At the Kigali Genocide Memorial, with audio headset, we moved through rooms showing the timeline and events of the violence, and the healing process. An extremely moving experience.

We were in Rwanda on the 27th anniversary of the genocide–called Kwibuka. We saw locals visiting rooms with photos of victims and graves outside among now mature rose bushes. The last room shows other genocide events around the world, reminding us of the need for tolerance, respect and love.

Today the focus is on being Rwandan and ethnic identification is banned. One night in front a bonfire at Nyungwe, a guide bravely shared his harrowing personal experience during the genocide. He was 15 at the time.

 Photos by Susan Bruce